Listen, the skincare industry often moves so fast it’s hard to keep up. From all the different kinds of lasers and lights to at-home hair regrowth pills and scalp serums — to say nothing of the 800 moisturizers you could choose from — it’s a little much at times. So when you see a serum for sale for $435, or another one for $258, or a face cream for $299, all containing the same buzzy ingredient, it’s natural to wonder if they’re anywhere near worth it. That ingredient would be exosomes, a word you probably haven’t heard anywhere else, but it’s all over the skincare ads populating our Instagram feeds lately.
So, what are exosomes in skincare, and is there any way they’re really worth that kind of cash?
What are exosomes in skincare?
The answer is based in microbiology, so it’s a little complicated.
“Exosomes are messenger vesicles that deliver cell-to-cell communication, delivering important molecules such as lipids, growth factors, proteins, and microRNAs,” says Courtney Coons, FNP-BC, board-certified nurse practitioner at PERK Plastic Surgery.
Exosomes used to be heard of only inside the dermatologist’s office in reference to exosome therapy, which involved applying topicals containing exosomes to the face after laser resurfacing or microneedling procedures, according to Allure.
“Think of them as little FedEx packages delivering ‘heal and rebuild’ instructions,” adds Dr. Jenna Queller, MD, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of DermWorks. The potential benefits? Exosomes are thought to help the skin heal faster after procedures like laser or microneedling, Queller says, as well as improve skin texture, “and possibly longer-term support of firmness and elasticity.”
Are exosome skincare products worth the money?
That “possibly” is important — most of the strong data dermatologists have about the benefits and safety of exosomes comes from in-office use with oversight from doctors, not over-the-counter serums and creams applied topically. For most people, that would make the idea of dropping a couple hundred bucks on a moisturizer a moot point.
“Many of the at-home products currently on the market are ahead of the science. The term ‘exosome’ has quickly become a buzzword, and not all products contain meaningful concentrations or clinically validated sources,” Queller says.
The sourcing of exosomes is another important consideration. Exosomes are derived from stem cells, typically from one of three sources, according to that Allure report: human, animal, or plant.
Those using human stem cell-derived exosomes work with accredited tissue banks to source human DNA, and while there are no human products in the final serums or creams, maybe that weirds you out. The animal stem cell route — often involving dogs — naturally raises questions about the animals’ welfare. However, some brands derive exosomes from animal byproducts, like goat milk. As for plant stem cells, products containing these are cheaper but may not work as well, according to the report, because plants’ and humans’ cellular structures are indeed different, and their exosomes may not do as much for our skin.
How To Include Exosome Products In Your Routine
First things first: If you are pregnant, breastfeeding, or have a history of skin cancer, Queller says to speak with your dermatologist before using anything containing exosomes. There isn’t much long-term safety data on exosomes yet, so it’s best to practice some caution.
Coons seconds that: “There is still limited data and much to learn about exosomes, but those with malignancies, active cancers, or active infections should avoid them. Something I heard at a recent conference stuck with me, which was to imagine exosomes as a software update. If you have bad hardware, a software update is not going to be beneficial.”
If you’re OK with the knowledge that exosomes in skincare applied topically are still pretty new, and therefore not proven to be effective, you’re free to try them. Look for a product that contains plated exosomes and is intended to be applied daily, Coons recommends.
“Plated exosomes are my topical exosomes of choice. They are developed based on research and sourcing done at Mayo Clinic. One major limitation with exosomes is that formulations vary widely in terms of sourcing, so not all exosome products are created equal.”
Queller says applying exosome serums after a microneedling or laser procedure is when the buzzy ingredient is most likely to make a difference. “Exosome-infused cleansers or low-concentration moisturizers may be more about marketing than measurable results,” she says. “For those incorporating them into a routine, less is more — a single well-formulated product is sufficient, typically used once daily or specifically after in-office treatments as directed. They generally layer well with gentle skincare, but I recommend avoiding simultaneous use with strong exfoliating acids or irritating actives immediately post-procedure, when the skin barrier is vulnerable.”
All in all, it sounds like exosomes have some promise, but there’s a lot more research still to be done. So, if you’re not ready to shell out for something unproven, maybe you should look into peptides.
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